Committed to Exploration

Committed to Exploration

Air Canada. Knowledge Engineer. 1987. Hot Stuff. The renowned and perspicacious author sitting in the next seat looks at me sharply: “You have a problem with commitment”. Hmm. Maybe I’m not so hot. Ten years later. Varig. Strategy innovation consultant. The mission: transform a staid company in a staid industry into an innovation dragon. Young kids […]

Quartet

Quartet

No glacier calving terminus, no horizon – we are enveloped in fog over a matte green sea and on grey rocks. Right behind the sound of a four-stroke outboard motor, a boat materializes through the fog, cutting a delta through the thick water. It navigates as an aircraft on instrument flight might: its pilot looking […]

Exiting the Glacier System

Exiting the Glacier System

It is time to return to civilization. To come down the ice, we choose a vast glacier that calves into the fjords – the Kaarale Gletcher. As the glacier twists and turns, it hides ice falls and crevasse fields. We intuit the best path down by eyeing the fall lines and identifying the smoothest and […]

Greenland and Childhood Dreams

Greenland and Childhood Dreams

For several nightless days we traversed eastern Greenland’s glaciers. Wherever we turned, just about every peak had its own glacier dropping and merging into the large ice sheets that were supporting us. During one magic moment, I had a strange sense of déjà vu – I was in one of the expansive scenes Hergé beautifully […]

Science!

Science!

Thanks to an infinitely gracious person, I was able to “do science” during my scouting trip to Greenland. For some, it may be enough to see a great picture of Pluto. For scientists, there is a lot more to know. Curiosity extends to invisible wavelengths, and to dynamic processes going back to the origin of the […]

On the Ice Fields

On the Ice Fields

We are on the Schweizerland glaciers, hiking along, deep in the rhythm of the hike. Most of our attention is focused on keeping our rope tight, so that a fall into a crevasse would be arrested instantly. During breaks, while me colleagues eat and rest, I collect my first two snow samples. Twice, I fill […]

Onto the Glaciers

Onto the Glaciers

The boat recedes into the distance, taking our injured ice team member away. We stand on the beach surrounded by tall peaks in all directions. North along the beach we hike, among stranded Mars rover-sized icebergs, and reach our entry point into the Schweizerland glacier system – a very long terminal moraine left behind as […]

High Tundra Beach

High Tundra Beach

Our circadian cycles declare it is time to wake up: Day 2 of our glacier trek is here. The Sun has been flying around the horizon like a butterfly while we were asleep, sometimes hiding behind a tall peak here and there. We carefully disarm the blank and thankfully unfired cartridges on the bear fence, […]

In the Land of Polar Bears and Arctic Foxes, We Are the Zoo Animals

In the Land of Polar Bears and Arctic Foxes, We Are the Zoo Animals

Island hopping is done: Iceland to Kulusuk, Kulusuk to Greenland. After landing on the East side of Tasiilaq Fjord, we are finally climbing up the hills. A few warm, 40-degree days have unleashed a pesky cloud of mosquitoes. They bite! We don our head nets; We now see the world through a pixelated screen. We cross the […]

Off to the Glaciers

Off to the Glaciers

Boulder – Reykjavik; Reykjavik – Kulusuk. The adventure has started, but we are not on the glaciers yet. We stand on the Kulusuk dock at high tide. Tied to the dock pillars, down in the icy water, a pod of dead seals stays cool and preserved. In a land with 2000 varieties of lichen and […]